Friday, August 17, 2012

Cooking with Wine, Beer, & other Alcohol

Recipes abound for cooking with alcohol.  The French and Italians will throw a dash of wine into just about everything.  The English love using their beer and hard cider.  Vodka and tequila are also popular contenders in the culinary world.  Alcohol in a dish can give great flavor, rich depth, and a nice bite.  It also gives us an excuse to relax and finish off the bottle with dinner (not that many of us need an excuse with our hectic lives).  I've had a lot of people ask me about cooking with wine (or other alcohol).  They tell me that they had an amazing meal at a friend's house.  They got the recipe and detailed instructions, but no matter how closely they followed it the dish still didn't turn out.  What's the secret? they ask.
There is only one rule for cooking with alcohol - no matter what the kind.  This is important, so pay attention.  Only cook with what you Enjoy drinking.  If you hate drinking a particular type or brand, Don't cook with it - you'll hate the results too.  Most recipes that call for alcohol will require you to reduce it - which concentrates the flavor and intensity of the wine, beer or whatever.  That means what ever makes you cringe about it to begin with will be present in the finished dish ten-fold.  That's why you should never (ever ever) use so called "Cooking wines" found in many groceries.  They're terrible tasting and rot-gut quality.  You can get a decent bottle of wine for about the same price around the corner.  If you go to a reputable store (like STM) you'll even find people who have actually tasted the liquor they carry and can steer you towards bottles that fit your preferences.      
One other thing to keep in mind; ingredient lists are guidelines.  Substitutions are okay.  If red wine is too heavy, try a rose.  White wine too sweet, use a Pinot Noir.  I don't care for Cognac, so I usually substitute Port or even a Marsala.  Tequila disagree with you?  Try Rum or a nice Snapps.  Julia Child and her legion of Culinary Gestapo won't suddenly appear and confiscate your whisk.  

Chicken Marsala
There are as many versions of this dish as there are Italian Grannies.  Avoid the temptation to omit the butter and flour as they serve a purpose.  If you want to make this a little healthier, substitute potatoes and vegetables for the traditional pasta.
4 boneless, skinless Chicken Breasts
1/4 - 1/2 c Flour
1-2 tsp STM Italian Seasoning (or STM Tuscany Seasoning)
Salt & Pepper to taste
1/4 c STM Arbequina or Garlic EVOO
1/4 c Butter
1 c Mushrooms (I tend to use the entire pint carton)
1/2 - 3/4 c Marsala wine
  Slice each breast into 3 long pieces.  Put chicken in between two layers of plastic wrap and pound until quite thin (1/4") I find my cast iron skillet to be very effective for this.  Stir the Italian seasoning, salt & pepper into the flour.  Heat the oil. When it starts to shimmer, dredge the chicken in the flour and add to the skillet.  The cook time will depend on how thin the chicken is.  I usually flip them after about 3-4.  The flour should be a nice golden brown.  When the chicken has been cooked through, remove it to a covered dish or warm oven.  Saute the mushrooms in the uncleaned chicken skillet.  After about 3-4 min, they should soften and begin to plump up.  Add the Marsala and simmer for 1-2 min.  The flour that fell off of the chicken will thicken the sauce, but you can add a tsp of the seasoned flour if you need to.  Stir in the butter, the sauce should be slightly glossy.  Return the chicken to the pan and toss to coat.

Tequila Bars
12 oz Vanilla wafer cookies
1/2 c Pine nuts
3/4 c melted Butter
1/3 - 1/2 c Tequila
1/2 c Lime Juice
5 Egg yolks + 2 Whites
14 oz Condensed milk
1 tb Sugar
  Pre-heat the oven to 350.  In a food processor (or large ziplock) crush the cookies and nuts until fine crumbs.  Cut in the butter.  Reserve 1/4 c.  Press the crust into a 9 x 13" pan.  Bake until golden, about 15 min.  Allow to cool while you finish the filling.  Whisk the tequila and lime juice with the egg yolks.  Beat in the condensed milk.  Separately beat the egg whites and sugar until stiff peaks form.  Fold into the yolk mixture.  Pour into the crust and sprinkle with the reserved crumbs.  Chill for 2 hours to set.

Beef Bourguignon
1 1/2 c Red Wine (such as Locati Cellar's Sangiovese or Koyle's Carmenere)
2 tb STM Worcestershire Sauce Powder
2 lb cubed Beef (ribeye or the like)
1/2 lb diced Bacon
3 tb STM Garlic EVOO
3/4 c diced Carrots
3/4 c diced Parsnips
2 tsp each STM Thyme, Oregano, and Parsley OR 5-6 tsp Herbs de Province
1 c frozen Pearl Onions
1/4 c flour
2 tb minced Garlic
3 c Beef stock
3 tb grated Parmesan
  Combine 3/4 c wine and the worcestershire sauce powder.  Season and marinate the beef for 30-60 min.  Meanwhile, render the bacon.  When all the fat has cooked out, remove and drain.  Pat the beef dry and sear in the bacon fat.  Remove to a plate.  There should be 2-3 tb of fat left, if not add some EVOO.  Saute the vegetables for about 10 min.  When they begin to brown, sprinkle the flour in.  Let it cook until it turns brown, then stir in the garlic.  Deglaze with the remaining wine and stock with the herbs.  Simmer for 10 min.  Return the meat to the pan and cook another 5 min.

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